WINERIES|酒庄

Representative winery selected from different region.在不同产区精选的最伟大的代表作酒庄。

Braida 百莱达

一级庄委员会创始成员


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布拉伊达(Braida)酒庄的历史就是葡萄酒史上的传奇人物贾科莫•波罗尼亚(Giacomo Bologna)的个人传记。他16岁就从英年早逝的父亲手中继承了位于罗切塔•塔纳罗(Rocchetta Tanaro)的一片美丽葡萄园,而此地被唤为“布拉伊达”。感谢那个葡萄园种植了在皮埃蒙特地区最为广泛的巴贝拉(Barbera),一反此种葡萄酒在当地的平民形象,他创造出完全不同的布里科•乌切罗尼(Bricco dell’Uccellone)。“正如它的创造人贾科莫•波罗尼亚,”著名记者布尔图•安德烈森(Burton Anderson)这样描述:“此款巴贝拉酒得名于阿斯蒂(Asti)东部地区罗切塔•塔纳罗之上的一个葡萄园,在橡木桶中进行陈化,具备无限潜力,强劲、热烈、广阔,充满旖旎色彩,从入口伊始,就令人花费比普通品尝更多的时间来回味。”


这款酒的诞生,来自于贾科莫•波罗尼亚在加州的一次旅行,在那里他邂逅了安德烈•特斯盖里斯福(André Tschelitscheff),这位俄裔美国酿酒学家曾在世界范围内,为推广橡木桶的使用立下了汗马功劳。这一技术被他运用在巴贝拉上,而这种葡萄此前因为单宁匮乏,酸度极高,但是通过在厚实的225公升的法国中央高原小橡木桶中长期存放而得到补充,这种贵族化的手段当时还无人运用。他是正确的:在1985年的意大利葡萄酒节,1982年份的布里科•乌切罗尼首次亮相,使得巴贝拉第一次跻身于世界级的贵族红酒之列。


像他的父亲一样,贾科莫•波罗尼亚亦过早离世,但是他的酒庄布拉伊达依然按照他所指引的方向稳步前进。管理酒庄的是他的两个孩子,两人都是酿酒师:朱塞佩(Beppe)负责葡萄园和酒窖;而拉法埃拉(Raffaella)则像父亲一样主管市场方面。1991年,他们决定灌装一款新的巴贝拉,由贾科莫亲自制定计划而且一直关注到他去世之前。他们以灵感为这款巴贝拉取名为“阿伊苏马”,意指“我们于此”。
正因为他们的努力,布拉伊达酒庄在父亲贾科莫•波罗尼亚离世后依然稳步前进。


The history of the Braida firm is linked to one of the most extraordinary personalities of the world of Italian wine, Giacomo Bologna. Over 220 pounds of exuberance and sheer likeability, a man of overflowing humanity, almost to the point of caricature, ably concealed behind a mask of smiling irony, a force of nature. At 16 years of age, he had inherited, after the premature death of his father, a lovely vineyard in Rocchetta Tanaro and, along with it, the rights to its name, Braida. Thanks to this vineyard he had an unshakeable faith in Piedmont’s most popular and widely planted grape, Barbera, at the time consider a bit vulgar and plebeian. But the wine which he created with the variety, Bricco dell’Uccellone, was a horse of a different color. 


“A virtual copy of its patriarch Giacomo Bologna”, wrote journalist Burton Anderson, “this Barbera, aged in French barriques, takes its name from a vineyard above Rocchetta Tanaro to the east of Asti, the wine is almost excessive, powerful, warm, generous, full of fantasy and character and, in any case, completely convincing to the taste and certain to pass the test of time”. Giacomo Bologna had studied the creation of the wine after a trip to California and an encounter with André Tschelitscheff, the American oenologist of Russian origin considered the world’s greatest expert in the use of small oak barrels. Experiments had convinced him that even Barbera (which he called with the feminine article, as all true inhabitants of Piedmont do), poor in tannins but rich in acidity, could reach a new level of aristocratic elegance when aged in the barrels of French oak from the Massif Central, something that few were convinced of at the time. And he was entirely right: presented at Italy’s Vinitaly fair in 1985, the 1982 Bricco dell’Uccellone was a resounding success, thanks to which Barbera was able to enter, for the first time, the ranks of the world’s great wines. 


Just as his father, Giacomo Bologna died at too early an age, but his firm, Braida, has continued to enjoy great success. It is run by his two children, Beppe, a trained oenologist, and Raffaella, as exuberant as her father and with the same marketing talents in her DNA. In 1991 they decided to bottle a new Barbera which Giacomo Bologna had conceived and followed right up to the harvest which preceded his death. And they baptized it with the name which he had exclaimed after tasting the fermenting must: “we’ve got it”, “Ai Suma” in the dialect of Piedmont.


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